“Clash of the Cookbooks”: A fresh serving of history, drama and delight
SalonCooking competitions have become as ubiquitous on television as nonstick skillets in home kitchens. From the breakneck eliminations of “Chopped” to the glitzy stakes of “Top Chef,” it’s easy to feel as though food television has entered its well-worn phase — perfectly palatable, but lacking a certain secret ingredient. With its blend of culinary history, intense challenges and playful banter, “Clash of the Cookbooks” feels like comfort viewing with a brainy twist, perfect to binge over the holiday break. In the second round, contestants tackle recipes from Mourad Lahlou’s “Mourad: New Moroccan,” a Michelin-starred exploration of traditional Moroccan flavors reimagined for modern palates. By the time the show ventures into medieval cuisine in the next episodes — via texts like “The Forme of Cury” and “English Royal Cookbook”— it becomes clear that “Clash of the Cookbooks” is playing a long game.