‘The Caspian Chef’ sets out to demystify Iranian food in a new cookbook

Mealtimes by the Caspian Sea were always displays of abundance. “To us in Persian food, herbs are not treated as little, cute things you put on the side of the plate, but rather herbs to us are vegetables,” said Roustaei, author of the new cookbook “Bitter and Sweet: Global Flavors from an Iranian-American Kitchen.” “When we cook a dish, we use mounds of herbs.” The tranquility of a childhood mixing cosmopolitan Tehran with summers in the north would be shattered when he was about 10 years old. “Through the food, which always feels like this safe gateway, it allows people to get to know Iran and who Iranians truly are,” said Roustaei, who is also a psychotherapist. The rice is scented by saffron and maybe mixed with yogurt, which produces light and fluffy grains with a crispy layer of golden tahdig, meaning “bottom of the pot.” The book is filled with dishes that would have been familiar on that long-ago family table, but many include personal twists that reflect a modern lifestyle. The recipe: Chicken in Pomegranate and Walnut Sauce From “Bitter and Sweet: Global Flavors from an Iranian-American Kitchen,” by Omid Roustaei Ingredients: 2 cups walnuts 2 tablespoons neutral oil 4 chicken thighs, bone in and skin on 1 onion, diced ½ cup pomegranate molasses ½ cup water ½ teaspoon sea salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 2–4 tablespoons sugar ½ teaspoon saffron threads, ground and bloomed in 1 tablespoon hot water Directions: In a food processor, chop the walnuts and process until finely ground.