How the Portuguese introduced the signature dish of Muttamala to Malabar
The HinduHeaps of golden-coloured noodle-like strands served on a whitish marble-like base make their appearance in many bakeries in Kerala during this time of the year. It is only made on special occasions or during Ramzan, Called Muttamaala, the literal translation of which is ‘egg chain’ or ‘egg necklace’, this is a signature dish from Malabar that carries the flavour of trade winds that blew in from distant lands, bringing with them explorers, traders, missionaries and mercenaries. Made by cooking egg yolk in sugar syrup flavoured with cardamom, the Muttamaala soon found its way into Muslim households in Kozhikode and Kannur. I recall my mother and grandmother making it in a large uruli at home.” After the yolks are collected for the Muttamaala, the remaining egg whites are beaten with the sugar syrup, poured into flat plates and steamed. As it got cooked in the sugar syrup, she would carefully keep it aside in a colander to drain,” says Nazaneen, adding, “It is an acquired taste.
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