These Black Pitmasters Are Hustling To Preserve Barbecue's Roots

LOADING ERROR LOADING American barbecue often ignites a passionate discourse that can only come from a deep love and appreciation of tender, flavorful smoked meat. And if you’re looking to take “An Epic Barbecue Tour of Texas” by way of Eater, don’t expect a single black-owned BBQ joint to be included on the list. “Barbecue is being redefined to what white standards of barbecue are,” said Adrian Miller, a food scholar who is writing a book that celebrates the contributions of African Americans to barbecue culture called “Black Smoke.” “There’s a wide world of barbecue out there, and it’s a little annoying that some people are exerting that there’s one way to make it.” Keeping the Legacy Alive In researching “Black Smoke,” Miller was surprised to discover that the exchange of culinary knowledge between Native Americans and enslaved Africans was the root of American barbecue. “I underestimated how much black women have been involved in barbecue because it’s always framed as such a masculine thing,” Miller said. “When you cut corners, you’re cheating customers and guests that may come in.” Courtesy of Horn Barbecue A tray of meats and sides from Matt Horn's Horn Barbecue in the Bay Area of Northern California.