Why France's most elaborate and macabre recipe is back on the menu
Why France's most elaborate and macabre recipe is back on the menu Jodi Hinds France has more than its fair share of flamboyant dishes – but the most elaborate of all is pressed duck, where a roast duck's bones are crushed to create a decadent "blood sauce". Jodi Hinds La Tour d'Argent in Paris has five duck presses for use in the restaurant Yet for a dish that has such prestige, like many French dishes, it has its roots in the countryside. From there, the recipe became a local dish in Duclair and Rouen, and later, in the late 19th Century, it became a speciality of the long-closed Hotel de la Poste in Duclair thanks to its owner Henri "Père" Denise, who bought ducks from the market across the river in the village of Anneville-Ambourville. Alamy La Tour d'Argent is famous for both the theatrical duck dish and its 300,000-bottle wine cellar Although La Tour d'Argent's version of the canard à la presse has its roots in Rouen, its importance is due to the restaurant's late-19th-Century owner Frédéric Delair who introduced the dish here and, in so doing, opened another chapter in its story.
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