Global warming is changing wine (not yet for the worse)

Christmas Specials Wine and climate Global warming is changing wine New vineyards are popping up in surprising places; old ones are enduring I t is late enough in the growing season that most grapes have already been picked, but it feels like a glorious summer day at the Octagon Block. Critics’ scores of Bordeaux vintages 100=best Average temperature during growing season, °C 16 17 18 19 100 80 Trend 60 Bordeaux no longer suffers very cold years, which produce poor wines 40 1950 60 70 80 90 2000 10 20 Critics’ scores of Bordeaux vintages, 100=best Average temperature during growing season, °C 16 17 18 19 100 80 Trend 60 Bordeaux no longer suffers very cold years, which produce poor wines 40 1950 60 70 80 90 2000 10 20 Critics’ scores of Bordeaux vintages, 100=best Average temperature during growing season, °C 16 17 18 19 100 80 Trend 60 Bordeaux no longer suffers very cold years, which produce poor wines 40 1950 60 70 80 90 2000 10 20 In theory, the welcome disappearance of years that are too cold or wet should be offset by the advent of vintages that are too hot or dry. “It’ll be some event that’s so extreme that you wake up and all the wine is gone.” Projected area lost in traditional wine regions, % 0 20 40 60 80 0 1 2 3 4 5 Increase in global temperature, compared with pre-industrial average,°C Projected area lost in traditional wine regions, % 0 20 40 60 80 0 1 2 3 4 5 Increase in global temperature, compared with pre-industrial average,°C Projected area lost in traditional wine regions, % 0 20 40 60 80 0 1 2 3 4 5 Increase in global temperature, compared with pre-industrial average,°C In response, some regions and producers are breaking long-standing norms. Areas with a climate suitable for grapes In 2023 In 2100 Both Early-ripening varieties Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris Essex Burgundy Mid-ripening Merlot, Tempranillo Bordeaux Tuscany Late-ripening Nebbiolo, Zinfandel Piedmont Pyrenees Areas with a climate suitable for grapes In 2023 In 2100 Both Mid-ripening Merlot, Tempranillo Late-ripening Nebbiolo, Zinfandel Early-ripening varieties Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris Essex Piedmont Burgundy Bordeaux Pyrenees Tuscany The challenge for aspiring winemakers will be to predict where exactly the finest terroir can be found within these new regions. “No doubt,” he says between sips, “there’s an Essex Crouch Valley terroir.” ■ Image: Sandra Navarro Sources: “Non-linear loss of suitable wine regions over Europe in response to increasing global warming”, by G. Sgubin et al., 2022; “Global warming and wine quality: are we close to the tipping point?”, by G. Gambetta and S.K.