Doug Scott: The first English mountaineer to conquer Everest

For free real time breaking news alerts sent straight to your inbox sign up to our breaking news emails Sign up to our free breaking news emails Sign up to our free breaking news emails SIGN UP I would like to be emailed about offers, events and updates from The Independent. Read our privacy policy Doug Scott, who has died aged 79, was one of the world’s greatest mountaineers, an inveterate climber who had made 45 expeditions to the high mountains of Asia. Scott and his climbing partner Dougal Haston became the first Britons to conquer Everest, making their ascent via the notorious southwest face, in 1975. He later said: “It was just natural curiosity that took us from one place to another without really planning it – it’s still much the same really.” He first met fellow climbers Chris Bonington and Don Whillans on Mont Blanc in 1961. Speaking about their second attempt, led by Bonington together with climbing partner Dougal Haston, Scott said: “I remember being there just below the rock band on the right side of the face with Dougal on 14 November screaming into each others’ ears over the wind – we’d come too late.” The southwest face is considered to be a particular challenge due to its length and its exposure to high-level winds.