Column | Forest foods and its people
The HinduAs a chef dedicated to unearthing the roots of our culinary heritage, my journey across India in the past decade has been humbling. They were uncredited, except in rare cases such as Nathaniel Wallich’s Plantae Asiaticae Rariores, an 1830 compendium of plants from eastern India that credits three local artists: Vishnupersaud, Gorachand and Rungaiah. The modern fascination with ‘wild foods’ among chefs and food enthusiasts mirrors this colonial botanical quest in some ways. During the monsoon of 2022, my platform The Locavore, which champions local food movements, along with OOO Farms and a team of 16 volunteers embarked on the Wild Food Project in Palghar, Maharashtra, to document the culinary wisdom of the Kokni tribe. The Wild Food Zine, published in late 2022, highlighted over 24 different wild ingredients offering a glimpse into the tribe’s traditional knowledge and culinary practices.
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On a journey to find where the wild things grow
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