L.A.’s dining timeline has gone through some major cultural ripples
LA TimesL.A. dining culture thrives on plurality. The Kogi team opens its first bricks-and-mortar restaurant, Chego, and labels it an “L.A.-in-a-rice-bowl spot.” In a mention of the dish Hot Buttered Kimchi Chow in his roundup of the year’s best dishes, Jonathan Gold writes presciently in L.A. Weekly: “Is this the year of metacuisine? Evan Kleiman, chef and host of KCRW’s weekly program “Good Food,” announces she’ll close her influential Melrose Avenue restaurant, Angeli Caffe. Dave Beran — formerly executive chef at Chicago’s shape-shifting restaurant Next — opens Dialogue, an 18-seat tasting-menu restaurant hidden on the second floor of a food court on Santa Monica’s Third Street Promenade. Ken Concepcion was previously chef de cuisine at Cut in Beverly Hills; he and his wife, Michelle Mungcal, created the store by asking themselves, “Where would cooks and chefs want to hang out on their day off?” It’s a banner year for Italian comfort food: Evan Funke’s Felix in Venice and Steve Samson’s Rossoblu in DTLA offer two different but wholly compelling deep dives on pasta; Daniele Uditi, who grew up in a family bakery near Naples, opens Pizzana, where he makes dazzlingly modernized Neapolitan pies.
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