Review: Laotian-style barbecue seizes the spotlight at Kra Z Kai’s in Corona
LA TimesRestaurant Critic Youthful and energetic, Musky Bilavarn ping-pongs around his small Laotian restaurant, Kra Z Kai’s in Corona, like a dervish: There he is manning the gas grill in the kitchen, there he is taking a phone order at the counter, there he is refilling your iced tea before you even notice the cup is half-empty. Laotian restaurants are elusive in the United States, but a spot like Kraz Z Kai’s is an even rarer bird: a suburban meat palace devoted exclusively to the aromatic, umami-intensive universe of Laotian-style barbecued meats. Four-year-old Kai helps his dad, Musky Bilavarn, inside the family’s Laotian barbecue restaurant, Kra Z Kai’s. Kra Z Kai’s is probably the only Laotian barbecue restaurant in Southern California, maybe even the country, Bilavarn tells me. The pork BBQ short rib at Kra Z Kai’s Laotian barbecue restaurant in Corona.
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