Paul Theroux's Latest Book Explores Surfing As A Metaphor For Life

3 months, 4 weeks ago

Surf life saving patrol season starts this weekend as Surfers Paradise club celebrates oldest member

ABC

At the age of 17, Claude Jeanneret was asked to join the Surfers Paradise Surf Life Saving Club following WWII because so many of its members had fought overseas and there was nobody left to patrol the beach. Patrol season begins Surf life saving remains the largest volunteer organisation in Australia. Surf Life Saving Australia's National Coastal Safety report released …

Life Gold Saving Club Coast Patrol Surf

5 months ago

Huh? What surfers mean when they’re frothing and charging at the Olympics or at home

LA Times

Caroline Marks of the U.S. competes on Day 6 of the Paris Olympic Games in Teahupo’o, French Polynesia. In between waiting for waves, here are a few common surf terms we’ve overheard recently: A-frame wave, n. Used to describe a wave that breaks in the shape of an “A” and often referred to as a “peaky wave,” A-frames allow surfers …

Surfing Olympic Wave Hawaiian Word Southern California Surf

5 months, 1 week ago

Tahiti’s youth surf culture gets a boost as island hosts the Paris Olympics

Associated Press

TEAHUPO’O, Tahiti — As the heavy, barrel-shaped waves of Teahupo’o, Tahiti — where the Paris Olympics surfing competition is being held — crashed in the distance, another, smaller surf session was underway just off the shore. Partly driven by the lack of resources he had when starting out and then finding success in his own career, Bourez said he began …

Surfing Young Paris Olympics Surfers Tahiti French Polynesian Vaast

5 months, 1 week ago

Tahiti’s waves are a matter of ‘life or death’ for Olympic surfers

NPR

Tahiti’s waves are a matter of ‘life or death’ for Olympic surfers toggle caption Ben Thouard/POOL AFP NPR is in Paris for the 2024 Summer Olympics. This is the second Olympics to feature surfing — with Hopkins and others beginning on the weekend — but it’s the first time competitors are riding waves that are a matter of “life or …

Olympics World Surfing Olympic Paris Wave Surfers

5 months, 2 weeks ago

Risking life and limb for glory: Olympic surf competition to be held on world’s ‘heaviest wave’

LA Times

The world’s “heaviest wave” is born near the South Pole, where fierce storms pound the ocean’s surface like angry fists, sending pulses of energy racing north, unimpeded, for thousands of miles. “It’s amazing just to see what this world can make, what the ocean is capable of,” said Crosby Colapinto, 23, a professional surfer from San Clemente who has competed …

Competition Surfing Olympic Figure Skating San Wave Tokyo

5 months, 3 weeks ago

The wave ‘at the end of the road': A look at the unique features of the Olympic Games surf spot

Associated Press

This month some of the world’s best surfers will travel to Tahiti, French Polynesia, to compete for Olympic gold on what is known as one of the heaviest waves in the world. Called Teahupo’o, the wave has unique properties that make it difficult to ride, having claimed the life of at least one surfer. The legendary wave ‘at the end …

Ride Olympic End Wave Surfer Games Surf

6 months, 2 weeks ago

What to know about Tamayo Perry, the actor and surfer who died in apparent shark attack

LA Times

Professional surfer, instructor, lifeguard and actor Tamayo Perry, pictured here with his wife Emilia, died Sunday in an apparent shark attack off Oahu’s east coast. Tamayo Perry, the pro surfer and actor who died in an apparent shark attack off Oahu’s North Shore on Monday, was remembered as a “legendary waterman” and a man of faith by his colleagues and …

Safety Ocean Attack North Know His Wife Attacks

6 months, 2 weeks ago

Tamayo Perry, surfer in ‘Blue Crush’ and ‘Hawaii Five-0,’ dies after apparent shark attack

LA Times

Tamayo Perry, shown at a surf competition in Tahiti in 2003, died Sunday after an apparent shark attack off Oahu’s North Shore. Tamayo Perry, a surfer, lifeguard and actor with a resume that included roles in “Blue Crush” and “Hawaii Five-0,” has died after an apparent shark attack off Oahu’s North Shore. According to news station KHON 2, Honolulu Ocean …

Safety Ocean Lifeguard North Perry Surfer Lager

8 months, 3 weeks ago

Surfing legend Layne Beachley reveals heartbreaking family news

Daily Mail

Layne Beachley has revealed her father Neil has been diagnosed with dementia. The legendary surfer, 51, revealed the heartbreaking family news on her Instagram page this month. The legendary surfer, 51, revealed the heartbreaking family news on her Instagram page this month The Sydney-born athlete told this week's New Idea magazine her rock star husband Kirk Pengilly, 65, was helping …

Sydney Neil Heartbreaking Family News Layne Beachley Layne Beachley Kirk Pengilly

10 months, 2 weeks ago

Surfing dangers: How a ruling in California might make things worse.

Slate

The sun was out and the water was smooth on July 5, 2018, the day Mark Olson’s back got sliced open by a surfboard fin. He doesn’t deserve to get punched, but he’s still an inexperienced surfer, the type of newbie longtime surfers might call a “kook.” Which brings us back to Mark Olson and Patrick Saville on July 5, …

Etiquette Water Surfing California Way Utah Wave

1 year ago

Surfer dies after shark “encounter” in Hawaii

Associated Press

PAIA, Hawaii — A surfer in Hawaii has died after being injured in a shark encounter off Maui’s northern shore, according to the Maui Police Department. Ocean Safety Officers grabbed and transported the man by jet ski to shore, where responders performed life-saving measures until medical personnel arrived and took the victim to a hospital for further treatment, police said …

Maui Hawaii

1 year, 1 month ago

The surfing venue for the Paris Olympics is on the other side of the world but could steal the show

The Independent

For free real time breaking news alerts sent straight to your inbox sign up to our breaking news emails Sign up to our free breaking news emails Please enter a valid email address Please enter a valid email address SIGN UP I would like to be emailed about offers, events and updates from The Independent. “Just the most perfect wave …

Olympics Olympic Pacific French Paris Waves Tahiti

1 year, 1 month ago

Professional provocateur John Waters’ handbook for life

LA Times

John Waters, the man who calls himself a “filth elder,” has emerged as a kind of prescient oracle whose principles are threaded through eight books, 12 feature films, speeches, artworks, one-man shows and an exhibition devoted to him at the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures. For decades, film director and professional provocateur John Waters has been asked to explain himself …

Waters John Waters

1 year, 2 months ago

Why surfers are flocking to Scotland

BBC

Why surfers are flocking to Scotland TNT Magazine Pixate Ltd/Alamy Surfers have been flocking to the Scottish coast near Thurso Recently, videos of surfers riding the Scottish coast have offered a window on the world of a big wave craze, from Thurso to Fife to Portobello near central Edinburgh. With a bit of imagination, in the smirr of a gloomy …

Surfing Scotland Coast Scottish Edinburgh Surf Surfers

1 year, 4 months ago

Eight floating homes around the world

BBC

Eight of the world's most stunning floating homes Mel Audi Floor-to-ceiling windows create great views across the water on the off-grid Altar, Brazil From Scandinavia to the US, people are finding community and freedom living on water. "They're bringing everything from a rescued shipping container to a houseboat built from recycled materials on to the world's waterways," Mitchell tells BBC …

Community France Homes Space World Life Credit

1 year, 7 months ago

Surfers at Amazon’s mouth ride some of world’s longest-lasting waves

Associated Press

CHAVES, Brazil — Surfers from all over Brazil gathered this week at the Amazon River’s mouth to ride some of the world’s longest-lasting waves, when the incoming tide roars upriver in a broad band that can keep surfboards afloat for kilometers. Never try to conquer it, because that’s impossible,” Noélio Sobrinho, president of Brazilian Pororoca Surfing Association, said in an …

Brazil Wave Surfers Chaves Sobrinho Pororoca

1 year, 7 months ago

Pay per wave: Native Hawaiians divided over artificial surf lagoon in the birthplace of surfing

The Independent

For free real time breaking news alerts sent straight to your inbox sign up to our breaking news emails Sign up to our free breaking news emails Sign up to our free breaking news emails SIGN UP I would like to be emailed about offers, events and updates from The Independent. In researching her book, “Surfing Sisterhood Hawai‘i: Women Reclaiming …

Ocean Surfing Wave Hawaiian Pool Surf Surfers

1 year, 7 months ago

Pay per wave: Native Hawaiians divided over artificial surf lagoon in the birthplace of surfing

Associated Press

EWA BEACH, Hawaii — Brian Keaulana is the quintessential Native Hawaiian waterman, well-known in Hawaii and beyond for his deep understanding of the ocean, gifted with surfing and lifeguarding skills passed down from his big-wave rider father. “You see these surfers going to these surf parks and catching wave after wave and they are honing their skills and then they …

Ocean Wave Hawaiian Hawaii Pool Surfers Waves

1 year, 7 months ago

5-year-old sees shark while surfing with his dad in viral video. Internet calls him irresponsible

India Today

Five-year-old Cali was surfing with his father, Garett, and he had gone a little too far away into the water when he witnessed something unusual. Garrett didn’t believe Cali at first because it’s very rare to see sharks so close to the shore behind our house, but then our neighbour yelled to them: “I just saw a shark near you!”!!! …

Video Shark His Father Garrett Cali

2 years, 2 months ago

Surfing is all about feeling present. Join the wave with Gabriella Angotti-Jones

LA Times

I’m floating on a longboard and the water is calm. I want it to be one of revelations.” When I learned Gabriella was releasing the book, I sent her a text: “How would you feel about me going surfing with you?” I’ve written about surfing, heard friends talk about it for years — mostly using phrases like, “it’s hard to …

Water Black Surfing Black Women Feel Think Wave

2 years, 4 months ago

What surfers blurt out when they think no one’s listening

LA Times

Paddling out on a quiet morning with waves crashing behind your last refreshing duck dive, you take a deep breath while settling into the lineup when suddenly you hear comments — “Dude. !” Surfer 2: “If you don’t shut up and paddle, you’re going to get worked even worse!” Surfer 1: “Taking off on a wave is like surfer bowling …

Beach San Wave Malibu Surf Surfer San Clemente

2 years, 7 months ago

Hawaii photographer finds fine art in massive Pacific waves

Associated Press

HALEIWA, Hawaii — Hawaii photographer Clark Little is known for his stunning images from inside the barrels of some of the most powerful and dangerous waves on Earth. I think it has more aqua beautiful colors.” Surfing great Kelly Slater affectionately calls Little “Turbo” — he was known for driving fast and taking chances when the two got to know …

Wave Hawaii Slater Little Surf Waves Massive Pacific

2 years, 7 months ago

Surfer helps families honor loved ones with ‘one last wave’

Associated Press

NEWPORT, R.I. — Surfing is no longer a solitary pursuit for Dan Fischer. I feel a commitment to helping their families and honoring them every time I go out.” Fischer, 42, created the One Last Wave Project in January to use the healing power of the ocean to help families coping with a loss, like he was. He etches their …

Social Media Board Surfing Names Way Wave Died

2 years, 7 months ago

Surfer helps families honor loved ones with 'one last wave'

The Independent

For free real time breaking news alerts sent straight to your inbox sign up to our breaking news emails Sign up to our free breaking news emails Sign up to our free breaking news emails SIGN UP I would like to be emailed about offers, events and updates from The Independent. I feel a commitment to helping their families and …

Social Media Board Surfing Names Way Wave Died

3 years, 3 months ago

Ocean’s 7: Kovalam’s quiet surfing revolution gets a boost as new surf schools open

The Hindu

It is high tide, on a grey afternoon. The fishing village is now home to seven independent surf schools — Surf Turf, Murthy Surfing School, Soulmate Surf School, Coco Surf School, Yellow Fin Surf School, Ocean Delight and Bay of Life — and is a popular destination with surfers from around the world. Murthy Megavan, a fisherman-turned-surfer from the village …

India East Village Murthy Point Surfers Kovalam

3 years, 5 months ago

Op-Ed: How surfing helped one recovering addict break the cycle

LA Times

I recently spent the night on the living room couch. “I’m addicted to Latin grammar.” People don’t merely follow current events closely; they’re “news junkies.” Surfers are certainly guilty of addiction hyperbole. The utter newness of being on a board in the ocean, the all-hands-on-deck alertness brought about by the ever-present danger of drowning or injury, combined with surfing’s aerobic …

Addiction Surfing Wave Surf Addict

3 years, 5 months ago

Surf’s up: Favorites lose as pending storm stirs waves

Associated Press

ICHINOMIYA, Japan — As a brewing storm stirred up the waves Monday during day two of surfing’s historic Olympic debut, there was a collapse of the favorites with some of the sport’s biggest stars failing to make their mark. The 27-year-old Buitendag said she initially had a “heart attack” when she saw what she was up against: the world’s greatest …

Japan Heat Olympic Waves Buitendag Best Surfer

3 years, 5 months ago

Surfing science: Dependent on weather, defined by the ocean

Associated Press

ICHINOMIYA, Japan — Olympic surfing’s debut is making clear that these wave riders are unsung masters of science -- in climatology, meteorology and oceanography to be exact. “Every person who goes into the ocean, whether you’re a surfer or not, you’re an amateur meteorologist and oceanographer,” said Kurt Korte, lead forecaster at Surfline and the official Olympic surfing forecaster. So …

Weather Olympics Beach Ocean Surfing Olympic Wave

3 years, 5 months ago

Surfing science: Dependent on weather, defined by the ocean

The Independent

For free real time breaking news alerts sent straight to your inbox sign up to our breaking news emails Sign up to our free breaking news emails Please enter a valid email address Please enter a valid email address SIGN UP I would like to be emailed about offers, events and updates from The Independent. Please try again later {{ …

Weather Olympics Beach Ocean Surfing Olympic Wave

3 years, 5 months ago

Olympic surfing exposes whitewashed Native Hawaiian roots

Associated Press

SANTA CRUZ, Calif. — For some Native Hawaiians, surfing’s Olympic debut is both a celebration of a cultural touchstone invented by their ancestors, and an extension of the racial indignities seared into the history of the game and their homeland. Today, white people are still seen as the leaders and authorities of the sport globally, as surfing’s evolution is now …

Olympics Sport Surfing Olympic California White Native

3 years, 6 months ago

A century later, a lot riding on surfing’s Olympic debut

Associated Press

SANTA CRUZ, Calif. — Surfing has a lot riding on its Olympic debut: a taste of the mainstream spotlight, athletic legitimacy for the uniquely four-dimensional sport, and, perhaps, some newfound respect so it can finally shake the stereotype as merely the pleasure pursuit of beach town himbos. The International Surfing Association has been lobbying the International Olympic Committee since 1995, …

Olympics Sport Japan Surfing Japanese Olympic Hawaii

3 years, 7 months ago

How the Wave Project offers struggling teens a surfing lifeline

The Independent

Footballers talk about “work rate”. “My parents were despairing of me ever doing anything useful.” By the second or third week a child suffering from long-term mutism started talking to his surfing instructor, asking for advice An occupational psychologist told him that all the work he had been doing had been “objective”, whereas his personality was naturally “subjective”. “Mindfulness was …

Life Surfing Scotland Project Wave Surf Joe Taylor

4 years, 4 months ago

New English guidebook tells Hainan's story

China Daily

The new book Hainan: Jade Cliffs to Ocean Paradise. These personal experiences and firsthand conversations are reflected in each of the book's chapters on Hainan's ecology, history, culture, leisure, food, sports and economy. "One of the things I was not expecting to find was a quaint little fishing village that has been quietly half-occupied by a growing surfing community," writer …

Hainan

4 years, 4 months ago

New English guidebook tells Hainan's story

China Daily

The new book Hainan: Jade Cliffs to Ocean Paradise. These personal experiences and firsthand conversations are reflected in each of the book's chapters on Hainan's ecology, history, culture, leisure, food, sports and economy. "One of the things I was not expecting to find was a quaint little fishing village that has been quietly half-occupied by a growing surfing community," writer …

Hainan

4 years, 6 months ago

The power of the surf: ‘Riding a wave gives me an off switch I can’t access in any other way’

The Independent

Stay ahead of the curve with our weekly guide to the latest trends, fashion, relationships and more Stay ahead of the curve with our weekly guide to the latest trends, fashion, relationships and more Stay ahead of the curve with our weekly guide to the latest trends, fashion, relationships and more SIGN UP I would like to be emailed about …

Feel Way Wave Our Weekly Guide Surf

4 years, 7 months ago

A tribute to the Scheveningen surfers: And you are up. Dancing on top of the sea

Dutch News

In 2016, occasional columnist Joe Weeg was taught to surf by one of the five surfers killed in the sea on Monday. ‘So, after you go into the water, come up like this, with your hands over your head, so you don’t get hit in the head with the board,’ the surfing instructor says. The white-blonde, long-haired, wiry, freckled, limber, …

Water Wait Sea Head Pull Surfers Old Surfers

4 years, 7 months ago

A tribute to the Scheveningen surfers: And you are up. Dancing on top of the sea

Dutch News

In 2016, occasional columnist Joe Weeg was taught to surf by one of the five surfers killed in the sea on Monday. ‘So, after you go into the water, come up like this, with your hands over your head, so you don’t get hit in the head with the board,’ the surfing instructor says. The white-blonde, long-haired, wiry, freckled, limber, …

Water Wait Sea Head Pull Surfers Old Surfers

4 years, 11 months ago

Surf lifesaving challenges your fitness and helps you give back to the community

ABC

"There are a lot of different aspects to surf lifesaving," says Charlotte McHenry as she overlooks the beach, squinting from the sun. There are other components to surf lifesaving, such as competing, running, swimming, inflatable rescue boat racing, education, training, and of course, socialising. Charlotte got into surf lifesaving aged seven through Nippers and by 16 she had completed her …

Life Saving Swimming Need Charlotte Surf Lifesaving Bronze Medallion

5 years, 2 months ago

JANE FRYER coasted to the first inland wavepark of its kind

Daily Mail

The sky is grey, the temperature falling and the wind is whipping into a bitter swirl as I stand, in a snug-fitting wetsuit, on what was a swathe of old farmland just outside Bristol. Today, me and seven other beginners are on the smooth ‘Malibu 1’ setting — though it couldn’t be less like Malibu here. The stretch of water …

Water Surfing British Olympic Britain Wave Hawaii

5 years, 7 months ago

Henry Rollins on the road with John Waters’ memoir, ‘Mr. Know-It-All’

LA Times

John Waters’ new collection of essays, “Mr. Couldn’t you just puke?” — John Waters Life is short and gets boring quick. “If I’m not scheduled to go somewhere professionally at least every couple of weeks, I get nervous.” The hold of ‘Hairspray’ John Waters was born April 22, 1946, in Baltimore and has been making films since the early 1960s. …

Life Way Know John Baltimore Thing Waters

5 years, 8 months ago

Surfer killed in shark attack off France’s Reunion island

The Independent

For free real time breaking news alerts sent straight to your inbox sign up to our breaking news emails Sign up to our free breaking news emails Please enter a valid email address Please enter a valid email address SIGN UP I would like to be emailed about offers, events and updates from The Independent. Read our privacy policy Thanks …

Reunion Attack Shark Email Surfer Shark Attack

5 years, 8 months ago

Eddie Aikau: Who was the brave surfer and what happened to him?

The Independent

Stay ahead of the curve with our weekly guide to the latest trends, fashion, relationships and more Stay ahead of the curve with our weekly guide to the latest trends, fashion, relationships and more Stay ahead of the curve with our weekly guide to the latest trends, fashion, relationships and more SIGN UP I would like to be emailed about …

Lifeguard Oahu Hawaii Eddie Our Weekly Guide Aikau Waimea Bay

Paul Theroux's Latest Book Explores Surfing As A Metaphor For Life

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