Newsletter: Who should be making (and selling) tamales?
LA TimesDecember is tamale-making season in Los Angeles, the time of year when I inevitably find myself elbow-deep in a tub of masa. In my family, the tamale prodigies include my husband, who makes green chile pork tamales in the wantonly spicy northern New Mexico tradition, and my mother, who can transform bubbling vats of guisados and hand-blended masa into pyramids of neatly stacked tamales in half a day or less. In this week’s review, I considered the machine-made tamales at Artesano Tamaleria, a new café in downtown Los Angeles. Lucy Garcia, right, and others make bags of holiday tamales for the Christmas Eve rush at Tamales Lilianas in East Los Angeles. Tamales were a popular commodity in early 20th century America, sold by immigrant men from around the world.. Tamales, one of the oldest and most highly adaptable foods on this continent, have long been sold by people from every background, from itinerant European immigrant hawkers on the streets of New York City to Mexican families selling them off wagons in turn-of-the-century Los Angeles.
History of this topic
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