Where to eat in Hong Kong: Join the queue for a culinary roller-coaster

Sign up to Simon Calder’s free travel email for expert advice and money-saving discounts Get Simon Calder’s Travel email Get Simon Calder’s Travel email SIGN UP I would like to be emailed about offers, events and updates from The Independent. I start my gourmet tour of Hong Kong not in a restaurant but on the streets of Mong Kok, cited in the Guinness Book of World Records as the world's most densely populated area, and until recently the centre of the Occupy Hong Kong movement, outside the main Central district camp. For xiaolongbao – "don't try to say it", my Hong Kong friend, Keno, tells me "just say you want the broth-filled soup dumplings" – and not a little full already, we travel on the MTR to Causeway Bay. As well as Gaddi's, there is sky-high fine dining at the Philippe Starck-designed Felix; modern Japanese at Imasa; a facsimile of a raclette-serving Swiss chalet at Chesa; Verandah, with its unfathomably large breakfast buffet; and modern Cantonese at Spring Moon; to say nothing of the hotel's beachfront outpost, Repulse Bay, on Hong Kong Island. Another interesting addition to the scene in recent years is Mott 32, a high-end Cantonese restaurant deep in Hong Kong's finance district.