Why the reopening of Meals by Genet’s dining room is a gift to L.A.
LA TimesIf asked to name from memory one element in the small dining room of Meals by Genet — the Little Ethiopia restaurant that chef-owner Genet Agonafer reopened last month for customer seating after a nearly four-year hiatus, during which she focused on takeout — I would bring up the big, wood-framed mirror that hangs behind the bar. Everyone lingered, because the food encouraged careful considerations of last great bites, and because the atmosphere had a snug Parisian quality that’s rare in Los Angeles. A happy return to the dining room Last weekend, back in Agonafer’s haven, it was as if time had rewound. Agonafer has been vegan for years now: There’s a clarity to the flavors in her color wheel of pureed lentils and split peas, chopped greens, turmeric-stained cabbage and carrots and lemony beets.
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Meals by Genet, beloved Ethiopian restaurant, is transitioning to takeout only
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