Why Destroyer is still crushing it at breakfast and lunch

“This is so 2017 of me,” I texted my journalist friend Meghan McCarron earlier this week, “but I’m spontaneously going to Destroyer today. A return to Destroyer Fast-forward to 2024, when I realized it had been a couple years since I’d had a meal at Destroyer. He’s nailed his recent one: ribbons of zucchini tangled among salad greens, dressed in brown butter-miso vinaigrette, atop a tart spread with mildly tangy farmer’s cheese. But if you’re never going to spend that kind of money on dinner, I’ll nudge you toward the rice pudding and the smoked fish and perhaps a bowl of berries and other assortments over coconut yogurt and tell you: It’s a window into Kahn’s unorthodox virtuosity for a fraction of the cost.