How Corsica, Napoleon’s birthplace, fell out of love with the dictator

Arriving late in Ajaccio, Corsica, at Aéroport Napoleon Bonaparte, I take a taxi to Hotel Napoleon. open image in gallery Napoleon’s name is found all over Corsica Napoleon left Corsica aged nine to attend military school in mainland France, his first steps towards a megalomania that saw him crown himself emperor in 1804 and conquer much of Europe. open image in gallery There’s no escaping Napoleon in La Grotte de Napoleon dipoi 1769 Despite this immersive Napoleonic deep-dive, José, like most Ajaccienes I speak with, is somewhat coy about him. open image in gallery Corte’s location, with easy access to magnificent landscapes, makes it an attractive destination for visitors Like a medieval bird’s nest, Corte sits among commanding granite rockfaces exuding an air of impregnability. “Napoleon’s good for business, even here.” Travel essentials Corsican Places has two nights at Les Mouettes, a four-star beachside hotel in Ajaccio, from £350pp, B&B, when added to any of its self-catering or hotel-based holiday packages.