Notes from a tea estate
The HinduI am beyond intrigued by the russet-hued liquid that’s playfully twinkling in the light of the midday winter sun, as I give a vigorous swirl to the goblet that contains it. I open my eyes and I am still very much at the lush Attabarrie Tea Estate in the village of Demow in Upper Assam, along the southern banks of the mighty Brahmaputra river. Pleased to have tried his long-in-the-brewing experiment on a food writer, no less, Shantanu Roy, the estate’s manager lets me in on his tea wine recipe that he says is produced from just the prized, needle-like bud of the tea plant, sugar, yeast and distilled water. Underdog’s day Producing roughly 55% of India’s tea, Assam, I learn, is home to around 850 big tea estates — just like Attabarrie where I am, that were set up during colonial times — along with lakhs of small tea growers or STGs as they are known locally. For the organised sector once again seems buoyed by the record-breaking sale of a kilo of Assam’s specialty orthodox tea from the Manohari Tea Estate in nearby Dibrugarh for an astronomical ₹99,999 at the famous Guwahati Tea Auction Centre a few weeks ago.