Even in the throes of June gloom, the sunny disposition of Southern California is an ideal climate for mariscos — for the precise uplift of citrus-doused, chile-ignited seafood. Mariscos Jalisco’s legendary tacos dorados de camarón tend to kick off local dialogues on the subject, as do the smoked marlin tacos and the grilled, Nayarit-style pescado zarandeado at Coni’Seafood in Inglewood. …
