It’s never been easy to define a regional style of cooking for Southern California. Consider that at any given moment in the city, Los Angeles cuisine might take the form of Avish Naran and Miles Shorey‘s dosa onion rings with mango chutney at Pijja Palace, Katianna and John Hong‘s matzoh-filled mandu at Yangban Society, Junya Yamasaki‘s tonkatsu-chicken Kiev mashup in …