What’s the orange chicken of Italian food? It’s safe to say that what’s in this book — pan-fried anchovies with smashed garlic; bread dumplings with potato and tomato broth; carrati pasta with mutton ragu — is “authentic.” It’s stuff you wouldn’t find served on top of red-and-white gingham tablecloths in Italian American red sauce joints decorated with fiaschi of Chianti. …
