Restaurant Critic By the time the negra fideuà makes its appearance on your table at Otoño, you’ll have already worked through a few plates of tapas — triangles of Manchego cheese smeared with Asturian honey, tiny bowls of paprika-dusted Marcona almonds, plates layered with lustrous, paper-thin slices of jamón ibérico. This is the sort of modern Spanish cooking that Montaño …
