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The shapes of HanEuem’s modeum jeon — a platter of various meat, seafood and vegetable flatcakes — are soothing and striking in their unevenness: rough circles, tapering oblongs and wobbly rectangles, browned like diner omelets but with the occasional streak of yolky yellow. Wonsuk “John” Kang outside HanEuem in Koreatown There is a mild pollock variation with scribbled-looking edges and …