Making the decision to quit a restaurant that one has poured passion, sweat and money into can be daunting. “It’s a better life,” he says, “better work-life balance, better pay, better pretty much everything.” Does he miss leading a restaurant kitchen? I don’t want to explain things to people, why it costs so much, I don’t want to hear ‘I …
From left, callo gratinado — scallop, queso chihuahua, squid ink crumbs, chile ancho — and the taco de esturión — smoked sturgeon, peanut, chile morita and cucumber — from Taco Maria in Costa Mesa. For Los Angeles diners, that means making a trip down south or Orange County to eat at Santa Ana’s loncheras or the best Vietnamese food in …