No cuisine is a monolith, and that seems especially true in the case of Cantonese cooking across Los Angeles right now. The audience for the San Gabriel Valley’s grand 20th century banquet halls wanes while cha chaan teng, a genre of restaurant derived from Hong Kong’s diner-like teahouses, thrives at places like Henry’s Cuisine in Alhambra. At least one of …
Wine, wine everywhere: bottles stacked on bottles, crowding every spare surface space, taking every inch of unclaimed countertop, packed like sardines between the tables, layered like a phalanx three soldiers deep atop the bar. “It’s almost like we’ve become more wine than restaurant,” laughs sommelier John Cerasulo, the driving force behind the restaurant’s wine program. “I remember we had those …
Malia Obama floats through the mobbed bar area at Mother Wolf, then disappears behind the opaque glass of a discreet side door. Evan Funke is among the country’s most pasta-obsessed chefs, the depths of which came most sharply into focus when he opened his hit Venice trattoria Felix: He installed a glass chamber where pastas are rolled in the center …
When Viet Nguyen finally secured the lease for his first restaurant, he wasn’t sure what he’d actually be cooking. There’s a story for me to tell.” Nguyen committed to what he knew, and in 2014, Súp Noodle Bar in Buena Park became the first chapter in a restaurant narrative that he’s continuing to write. “And every day, they’d clean up …