The most quietly ambitious cooking to emerge in Los Angeles this year is at Yess
LA TimesThe long, narrow, single-story building at 2001 E. 7th St., its catty-cornered entrance facing the intersection of Mateo Street, debuted in 1924. He channels these qualities into an early, daily-changing signature he calls “monk’s chirashi-sushi.” In late July a black bowl held red, green and orange cherry tomatoes, each with similarly bursting textures; fresh peaches cut in thick triangles; bright, blanched green beans cleaved on the diagonal; crinkled slips of pickled eggplant; two kinds of shiso for a surprise burst of sharp flavors; and toasted almonds for occasional crunch. “Japanese seafood restaurant” doesn’t quite describe its breadth, though Yamasaki is a devoted diver and fisher. Clockwise from top left: Grilled pork collar, blue fin tuna sashimi, monk’s chirashi-sushi, fried horse mackerel and sake-salsa borracha and stone fruit salad. Even with Yamasaki’s international reputation, and early local fans earned via the truck, I’ve noticed relatively light crowds in Yess during its first few months.
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