Baroo changed L.A. dining for good. Can its 2.0 do the same?
LA TimesIf I had to choose one word to encapsulate the creative surge that propelled L.A.’s food culture forward last decade — a momentum that confirmed the city’s status as a global culinary destination, a spate of nonconformism that continues to influence how we think about restaurants — it would be Baroo. It began: “Where do these meals come from?” Baroo’s open, polished dining space in the Arts District is a far cry from the restaurant’s first iteration. Uh’s pineapple-laced kimchi fried rice and brainstorms like oxtail ragout with gochujang and sauerkraut powder bridged the arc between Roy Choi’s Korean tacos and Ludo Lefebvre’s layered, unbridled tasting-menu courses at Trois Mec. In 2019 Uh and Park had a short-lived stall inside East Hollywood’s Union Swapmeet they called Baroo Canteen, serving pared-down versions of Uh’s grain bowls.