A can’t-miss technique for bringing flavor to pallid, seedless watermelons

I’ve long held a controversial opinion that goes against science, and now is the season to come clean about it: Watermelons aren’t as good as they used to be. Most watermelons sold in grocery stores now are “seedless” — technically they do have seeds, they’re just really small and not crunchy so you don’t mind eating them. The salt and sugar help tame the raw harshness of the jalapeño slices so they’re pleasant — not a shock — on top of the salad. I’ll be making it all summer long every time I come upon a less-than-stellar specimen, seasoning it with salt and sugar and then coating it in this rich, spicy and spiced dressing. It’s my way of turning lemons into lemonade, or more appropriately, middling melons into a breezy summertime salad worthy of the memory of those watermelons from days gone by.