The cooking language of David Tanis
LA TimesDavid Tanis — one of the storied chefs in the history of Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse who, more than any other, helped define that restaurant’s cooking style — has a giant reputation. Tanis takes a bite and, with no change in his expression, says, “Mmm, sweet.” He raises his eyebrows to signal he’s excited. This is the magic of Tanis’ cooking: He turns beautiful ingredients into, somehow, more extraordinary dishes, but without complex seasonings or tricks, proving that you don’t need to cut corners on quality to make something “quick.” Chef and author David Tanis adds Parmesan cheese to a salad made with radish and arugula. And it smells, so it’s multimedia.” Chef and author David Tanis cooks in the L.A. Times test kitchen after a visit to the Hollywood Farmers Market.
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