Guide: Where to get top-notch tamales in Los Angeles right now
LA TimesTamales rate among the essential staple foods of Southern California. During an early December visit to Angry Egret Dinette, Wes Avila’s then brand-new takeout operation in Chinatown’s Mandarin Plaza, I noticed he’d painted a sign on its window: “Tamales available for the holidays.” I placed an order online, and on Christmas Eve we were unwrapping corn husks revealing fluffy masa ovals filled with things like winter squash paired with Jack cheese, ropy shreds of beef in red chile and duck in salsa negra. 970 N. Broadway, Los Angeles, 278-0987, aedinette.com Chichén Itzá The Cetina family’s destination stand for Yucatan specialties in Mercado La Paloma features three versions of regional tamales. 3655 S. Grand Ave., Los Angeles, 741-1075, chichenitzarestaurant.com La Mascota Bakery The inside of this panadería and kitchen feels like every other bakery in any medium-size city in Mexico that’s been updated to seem “modern” while still retaining a grandmotherly charm, with warm hues, and a window off a central patio meant to showcase the women putting together La Mascota’s beloved tamales. 13754 Van Nuys Blvd., Pacoima, 896-8789, megustagourmettamales.com Mi Ranchito Veracruz On a wall-size menu, under the words “Today is a great day for a Veracruz tamal,” owners Pedro Barrientos, Roberto Gamboa and Marcos Ramirez keep a handwritten tally of how many tamales they’ve wrapped in banana leaves since opening in 2016.