What the Fork: Dum Technique, Spices Rule the Roost in Biryanis from South, Writes Kunal Vijayakar
News 18The biryani is probably the most egalitarian food in India. But it was this cheap Malayali-owned Muslim restaurant, called Café Bahar at Gogha Street in Mumbai’s Fort area, where I could afford to order a biryani for myself on my meagre pocket money. Hyderabadi Biryani When you speak of the south, the first and most eminent and touted biryani that comes to mind is the Hyderabadi Biryani or more specifically the ‘Hyderabadi Kachche Gosht Ki Dum Biryani’. Pieces of mutton marinated in thick curd, ginger-garlic, spices pure ghee and golden fried onions layered with half-cooked long grain Basmati rice flavoured with saffron, rose and kewda and cooked on ‘dum’, the pride of the first Nizam of Hyderabad Asaf Jah’s kitchens. This biryani is thought distinctly different from its other south Indian cousins, though the meat here is not tenderised in a curd marinade, but is slow-cooked on a ‘dum’ over hours for it to fall off the bone.
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