The undefinable cooking at Poltergeist will haunt you
LA TimesThe din of a video game arcade that doubles as a restaurant is as unbridled as you’d imagine. Yes, those are “croutons” — Argoti’s version for Thai Caesar salad with fried rice paper, sprinkled with powdered parsley and fenugreek. Diego Argoti, chef at Poltergeist, also founded the Estrano Things pop-up three years ago, serving “street pasta.” Most everyone finds the same way into Argoti’s domain: via the Thai Caesar salad. He blurs national borders in noodle dishes, sets crisped octopus over fry bread that’s stained charcoal-gray from squid ink and embellishes fried whole fish with condiments that reference at least three culinary cultures. The kitchen in action — make it another Thai Caesar salad — it has become Poltergeist’s signature dish.
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