Food trail: Dehradun’s bun-tikki, Garhwali thali and dry thukpa
Live MintA middle-aged man roasts small alu-tikkis on a small griddle, turning each over with care. “Many refugees who came from the North-West Frontier were skilled bakers and Doon had an army of local karigars left behind by the British,” says anthropologist Lokesh Ohri. “After his exile, His Holiness The Dalai Lama had come to Dehradun for a year and with him came many Tibetans,” says chef Tenzin Dolma of the city’s Hyatt Regency, when I ask about the popularity of Tibetan food. “While His Holiness left for Dharamsala soon, the community stayed back, and so did its food,” says Dolma, who is working to open a Tibetan speciality restaurant, Beyul, at the hotel. “The trick,” says Dolma, “is to cook it slowly.” Pahadi food in Dehradun remains a rarity—though this is beginning to change.