Comfort me with food memoirs, the only books I want to read right now
4 years, 7 months ago

Comfort me with food memoirs, the only books I want to read right now

Salon  

It was a question I not too long ago would have been able to answer confidently. I thumb through Susan Herrmann Loomis's "In a French Kitchen," fantasizing about a life where I'm an ex-pat living in Normandy, polishing my copper pots every single time I wash them, finding time in my busy, fulfilling life to make impeccable vinaigrettes. And while Buford's new culinary adventures in France follow much of the winning formula of "Heat" — history, reportage, animal guts — they seem exponentially less charming now, as a middle-aged guy whose accommodating wife and young twins provide him with witty domestic anecdotes while he pursues His Dream. For a more satisfying view into the world of rock star chefs, I prefer Fanny Singer's tender, "Always Home: A Daughter's Recipes & Stories." Of course, the notorious egg in a spoon makes an appearance, complete with Singer's observation that the complicated, time consuming, delicious-sounding dish one makes in it "sums up my relationship with my mother."

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