Years ago, I whipped up an omelette for a Frenchman using a high-speed, high-heat technique that required a lot of attention but made for some mean eggs. That burner is Breville's new Control Freak Home, which is sold under the ChefSteps brand that Breville acquired in 2019. It's a barely scaled-back version of the company's original Control Freak countertop burner. …