It’s never been easy to define a regional style of cooking for Southern California. Consider that at any given moment in the city, Los Angeles cuisine might take the form of Avish Naran and Miles Shorey‘s dosa onion rings with mango chutney at Pijja Palace, Katianna and John Hong‘s matzoh-filled mandu at Yangban Society, Junya Yamasaki‘s tonkatsu-chicken Kiev mashup in …
Even in the throes of June gloom, the sunny disposition of Southern California is an ideal climate for mariscos — for the precise uplift of citrus-doused, chile-ignited seafood. Mariscos Jalisco’s legendary tacos dorados de camarón tend to kick off local dialogues on the subject, as do the smoked marlin tacos and the grilled, Nayarit-style pescado zarandeado at Coni’Seafood in Inglewood. …
