At Gunsmoke, Brandon Kida re-imagines Japanese cuisine as, clockwise from top left, California rockfish with sambal; tuna and country ham with gnocco fritto; sweet potato with umeboshi crème fraîche; and whitefish crudo with burnt scallion oil. Gunsmoke is at the base of the Columbia Square Living building — once the CBS studio where the original “Gunsmoke” radio show was produced …
