At Holy Basil, Wedchayan “Deau” Arpapornnopparat often makes pad see ew with vermicelli, a version he loved growing up. Then I remembered I hadn’t yet been to an L.A. newcomer for boat noodles: Mae Malai Thai House of Noodles in Hollywood. A new destination for boat noodles Malai Data began serving her version of boat noodles — a recipe gleaned …
At the end of 2020, a red neon sign spelling the words “Holy Basil” appeared over a takeout window in a downtown food hall still under construction, and Thai dining in Los Angeles tilted slightly on its axis. Turmeric-stained kua kling, one of Jitlada’s many incendiary Southern Thai curries perfected by the late Suthiporn “Tui” Sungkamee, whose legacy his sister …
