Goa’s best chef is a secret
Live MintThe history of the world is on your plate, all food is the expression of a long struggle and a long story. But even if this great Goan restaurant almost always remains serenely empty, there’s no doubt the connected cuisines of India’s smallest state—the Cozinha de Goa resulting from centuries of profound globalization—are boldly emerging into the global food spotlight. Some time ago, the New York magazine called the street food cult favourite ros omelette “one of the world’s great egg dishes”. Meanwhile, just up the coast, where it obsessively reinvents cherished specialities like kismur and uddamethi, Mumbai’s landmark “Goa inspired” O Pedro vaulted to No.8 in the 2019 Condé Nast Traveller Top Restaurant national rankings. My 1886 edition of Hobson-Jobson archly states, “Marsden calls it ‘a species of caviare’ which is hardly fair to caviare.” Much more reliably, the Goan historian Fatima Silva Gracias writes in her new, excellent Cozinha De Goa—A Glossary On Food that the delicacy is “a preserve believed to be of Malaysian origin, made of tiny shrimps whose Latin name is Acetes Indicus …prepared in two ways: in the form of a powder and in semi-liquid form”.
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